If you are ever walking by the graveyard at Tufuiopa, in Apia, and decide to stroll among the old headstones keep an eye out for those of Etesa Malietoa Axmann and ‘the man who came back’, Feodor Axmann. Etesa’s memorial stands erect but Feodor’s headstone has fallen down and nature is trying to reclaim it.
The graves are side by side, a reminder of the ties that bind the Samoans and the Germans.
So’o le fau ma le fau.
Credit: Photographs by Rudy Spemann.
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